‘Endstation Hamburg’ would be the German way to describe it. Against the original plan of paddling all the way to Cuxhaven we decided to stop in Hamburg. 650km, 17 days, two countries and 6 federal states is enough for now and having taken the boat out of the river, i was a bit lazy to put it back together for another day or two. There was also sad news of two canoers bodies recovered half way to Cuxhaven. So that was the Elbe paddle – a test run for my bigger plan of paddling the Yukon in Canada/Alaska (~5x the distance at ~3,000km) and a bit of seen in my home country. Loved every moment of this river adventure even though that is hard to believe for some 😉 💪 🛶
Two days in Hamburg
We spent only so much time sightseeing. Mainly the Landungsbrücken, Hafencity and the city hall. All pretty nice. The busy port with loads of waves reminded us as to why we took the boat out early. We didn’t see a single paddler in the harbour area though they are more likely to use the less busy Suederelbe anyway. We did spot the vessel though that passed the lock in Geesthacht with us.
For dinner we were invited at Thomas’ and Hanna’s brand new house in the West of Hamburg. I had never actually met any of the three boys. Another very important reason for the extra time in Hamburg. Afterwards we hit the Kietz with its iconic Reeperbahn. It was pretty empty, but we found still some iconic bars to have a good night out after all the sporty days behind us. The sun greeted us on the way home ☀ ☺ 🏩
So how was it after almost 3w on the river?
I have to say that I am well impressed with what the journey has to offer. It is true that it is not a matter of floating down the river, but in fact hard work. In particular at low water levels. On the flip side there are plenty of pretty towns on the way, amazing outdoor (really loved the camping by the river with good swimming and little insect issues) and so many animals. Really good to see the beavers back, lots of seafood about (crabs et al) and endless numbers of birds. I hope the infrastructure improves even further, as some places between Meissen & Hamburg feel dead.
What to learn for the next trip?
Here is a short list of improvements for the next trip.
- Seat padding & backrest
- Folding chairs
- More gas, less liquid fuel (used spirit and managed to melt the MSR stove) ⛽ 🛢️
- Waterfilter (well, if it ever gets delivered)
- Larger tent (for Yukon) 🏕️
- Much less clothing for change (quick wash is enough)
- Better shoes (flip flops are pretty unstable) 👟
- Consider canoe/double paddles
- Need to accept that a cold beer or meat just won’t be readily available 🍻 🥩
- An umbrella instead of drag sail