Elbe paddle (day 8): Coswig (Anhalt) – Dessau – Barby

Today: 53km | Total: 334km

What a stormy night. Seems like it rained all night and the wind bent the tent properly. I woke up a few times. Going to toilet from your sleeping bag into the nightly rain is not the nicest thing, but heh. At least I had a pretty early start in the morning and got onto paddling 8.15am and managed to break through the 300km mark.


I made mileage quickly, enjoyed many animals on the way including a herd of donkeys and another beaver (sadly he escaped my camera… Yet again) and even comorans.

By lunchtime i reached Dessau. Sadly no Klaus-in-town. On weekend holidays. Such is life. Last time we met in berlin (Berlin: A concert, a wall & an old friend). I had a look around anyway. The city was a lot bigger than i expected. Partly because i parked my boat in the yacht club… A good walk from the center. I saw the Bauhaus building (🤔), but liked most the town hall. The city was empty though. Hardly any places opened (Sunday as well). But overall, not bad. I enjoyed lunch and a beer before making my way back to the boat. Also saw one of the old east german mopeds that i used to ride.

By 2pm i was back on  the river. After 22km in the morning, it was another 31km in less than 5h. It was beautiful and included a stop for laundry and a swim. Music dictated the pace. Böhse Onkelz, Romeo Santos and Irish music. Loved it.

At Barby campsite i saw the Dresden paddler couple again. Not a lot of love to be frank. Instead i met Stefan and his son. Stefan works at commerzbank and knows quite a few people there that i know as well as an old commerzbanker. Great chat. Small world.


Elbe paddle (day 7): Wittenberg to Coswig (Anhalt)

Today: 27km | Total: 281km

Short and slow day today. I had a little sleep-in this morning after last night’s wine fest in Wittenberg and only hit the river well after 10am. At the boathouse I met a couple from West Germany who started in Dresden and also paddle to the Elbe estuary. They seemed a bit uptight to me, but were helpful. Sorry i drank one of your sprites 😔.


It was boiling hot all day with 33 degrees (in the shade). So i had an extended lunch stop after the first 15km. Food, sunbathing, swimming… No rush today after a long week paddling. Better than ending up with a sunstroke anyway.

Mid afternoon i reached Coswig (how funny that there are two Coswig’s on the river) and stopped at the Schwarzer Bär beer garden. I was the only guest. The beer was warm, but the Schnitzel not too shabby. The sun was still boiling everything it touched.

After a brief shopping stop i paddled on only to hit strong headwinds and upcoming rain more or less as soon as i got into the canoe. Abort. I put up my tent just after Coswig and called it a day.

There are now some 490km left of the c775km from Usti to Cuxhaven or 41km average per day. On 6km/h that is 7h of paddling per day. I hope the rain will speed up the current a bit. But all very doabl

There are now 490km left of the c775km from Usti to Cuxhaven or 41km average per day (current average is 43km taking day 1 as half). On 6km/h that is a little less than 7h of paddling per day. I hope the rain will speed up the current a bit and soon there will be a second paddle as well. All very doable.