Elbe paddle (day 7): Wittenberg to Coswig (Anhalt)

Today: 27km | Total: 281km

Short and slow day today. I had a little sleep-in this morning after last night’s wine fest in Wittenberg and only hit the river well after 10am. At the boathouse I met a couple from West Germany who started in Dresden and also paddle to the Elbe estuary. They seemed a bit uptight to me, but were helpful. Sorry i drank one of your sprites 😔.


It was boiling hot all day with 33 degrees (in the shade). So i had an extended lunch stop after the first 15km. Food, sunbathing, swimming… No rush today after a long week paddling. Better than ending up with a sunstroke anyway.

Mid afternoon i reached Coswig (how funny that there are two Coswig’s on the river) and stopped at the Schwarzer Bär beer garden. I was the only guest. The beer was warm, but the Schnitzel not too shabby. The sun was still boiling everything it touched.

After a brief shopping stop i paddled on only to hit strong headwinds and upcoming rain more or less as soon as i got into the canoe. Abort. I put up my tent just after Coswig and called it a day.

There are now some 490km left of the c775km from Usti to Cuxhaven or 41km average per day. On 6km/h that is 7h of paddling per day. I hope the rain will speed up the current a bit. But all very doabl

There are now 490km left of the c775km from Usti to Cuxhaven or 41km average per day (current average is 43km taking day 1 as half). On 6km/h that is a little less than 7h of paddling per day. I hope the rain will speed up the current a bit and soon there will be a second paddle as well. All very doable.

Elbe paddle (day 6): Torgau to Wittenberg

Today: 57km | Total: 254km

I have left my home state of Saxony ultimately behind me and am now cruising through Sachsen-Anhalt. Today set a new record in terms of distance at 57km. Hard work honestly and hardly any breaks (partly because there wasn’t much significant to stop for). Anyway, made it to the city of Wittenberg – home of Martin Luther and basically the cradle of protestant christianity. One third of the way now. Time flies.


The scenery was pretty much the same all the way. More grassy embankments, loads of animals from cows to storks and prey birds. Some ducks as well. Still not much traffic apart from a group of canoe club travellers (which i overtook) and a fast kayak (well …). I had expected rain, but rather managed to stay dry while being surrounded by thunder further away. Amazing athmosphere.

Bodycheck: Hands feel a bit rough, bottom better since i sit on my inflatable now, muscles getting used to the regime, sun added colour in exposed spots (a lot), but no sunburn. So all good folks.

The city of Wittenberg is a beauty. Finally i saw luther’s church with 95 theses and enjoyed the 25th wine festival. Now i am tired. Need a bit of rest. Tomorrow off towards Dessau. Probably make it a shorter day though.