Day 22: Trabadelo to Fonfria (Galicia here we are!)

Nice day out today. Some 32km done amidst amazing scenery though also with plenty of climbing involved. Initially the route took me still along the highway, before finally wilderness took over.

Population Cebreiro …

The first stop for me was Las Herrerias to relax over orange juice and tortilla after the initial climb. Then on to O Cebreiro – a posterchild historical village of the region marked by round houses of made of stone and thatched roofs.

I walked mostly alone with brief stints with an Austrian girl and very briefly with the Singaporian guy I convinced to also have a noodle ramen yesterday. The story of O Cebreiro is similar to the whole Galician region and marked by a large decline in population since its hey days many a year ago.

Afterwards the continued up and downhill towards a village called Hospital where I enjoyed another Pilgrims meal with lentil soup, chicken & potato, yoghurt and water. I decided to continue for another 10km to Fonfria while enjoying the deep and wide views across the Galician countryside. Stunning.

At the hostel in Fonfria I expected team Canada (helen & leah … just to get the name issue sorted) and wasn’t disappointed. Already in sunbathing mode.

One of them apparently bumped into Guelane this morning (before cheating a little on transport options). Apparently he has been to see the doctor who told him to take it easy for a while. anyway, guelane says the leg is already better and less swollen.

He made it within 8km of O Cebreiro by lunchtime and decided this will be his destination of the day. Fonfria would be pushing it a little. His personal comment: A day towards renewal. Reaching the top of the hill after almost 8k was like a deliverance. Burden of the past just left my soul. A new chapter of my life is shaping out.

Aim is still to reach Santiago by next Tuesday. Means 4 days left for 140km or 35km average/day. Thanks god that it is downhill to flat from here and not as boring as the Mesetas have been. So sounds doable. If not, one day more won’t hurt anyone.

For dinner pilgrims meal a la Galicia was on the menu in one of the cute round houses. Most pilgrims appeared and it turned out really good value (€9 each) & quality. Galician soup, rice/meat/veg & Santiago tart together with plenty of water and wine. Delicious. Galician food is already better than what we had before. Seems to be consensus!

To young guys, Matthias & Jorre, next to me were pretty interesting having walked from Belgium in the past 62 days. That means they have already some 2000km under their belt. Respect guys! Thanks for sharing your experience. DONT STOP WALKING! Here is Jorre’s blog (Flamish) for the interested:

On the left (front of pic to back):
couple from Mallorca, Helen, Leah
On the right: Matthias, Jorre

Disappointment of the day: First time foot massage is offered in a hostel and I dont have enough cash & their is no bank here. I will put it into the suffering – box.

Pilgrims lunch meal

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