Scottish National Trail: Tough terrain, great views (day 14/15)

Today: 110km |Total: 596km

Tired. Satisfied. Blistered. Wet. Happy. Some of the words that just came to mind after two truely demanding days covering 57km over from Morvich finished off with a train ride and two hitchhikes to Ullapool. But another 110km closer to Cape Wrath and now close to the 600km mark and ‘only’ some 160km to go to Cape Wrath.

I left my campsite around 9am yesterday and hiked 6km to resume the trail. Unfortunately my phone was dead and solar charging not an option on this grey morning. So i stopped at a hotel half way to get a charge. As usual, very helpful the scottish people.

The first half of the trail leads you up the hills with great views of the valley (fog permitting). Down on the other side you’ll find the falls of glomach. Quite cool. Conditions were wet throughout though.

Just before the fall i met Celia, a french solo hiker. She had already completed the west highland way and was now, at least for a bit, on the cape wrath trail. We continued the hike together.

As usual when you walk with others, time goes past quicker. No difference today and so we made good ground amidst talking about theatre (her chosen field of studies), hiking experiences (iceland etc) and other travel stories such as her time in india and china. It was nice to talk to someone about the latter, as i haven’t met many travellers that have been there.

By 6pm we reached the Maol-Bhuidhe bothy. Sadly no firewood to dry clothes (boots were completely wet… again), but still nice to have a roof over the head instead of a small tent. Dinner, few more stories and it was bedtime early.

The next morning looked surprisingly good and the sun was out. We hit the trail already 8am after a slightlty restless night for me (as so often up here). Views and colours to die for!

Three hours into the hike our trails separated, as I headed alone to Craig. Quick selfie, all the best and goodbye! Alone from here.

I was admittedly pretty tired and my wet feet hurt. I changed socks twice (having one pair drying on the go) and was glad to reach craig by 3.30pm.

From here i had to find a way to Ullapool to meet laura. Hiking would take me two more days and we wouldn’t make it to Cape Wrath. Thankfully i met two walkers and their dog that gave me a lift to a station in Achnasheen and hence made it to Garve by train.

No more public transport from here on Sunday! So hitchhiking. First two cars that stopped went to other destinations and so i walked a bit. Soon though a man from Ullapool had a heart for hikers and gave me a lift to Ullapool. Quite cool conversation. Most interesting was the story about the East German Klondykers. Have a look here.

Once in the hostel to usual routine kicked in… shower, washing, some care for feet, dinner, sleep…

Off to Cape wrath!

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